Every great cuisine must be rooted in the regional and the local. The French speak of the importance of terroir - there is not an English word that so aptly encompasses the totality of an area, its particular soil, microclimate, even culture and history. It is terroir, an individual and unique set of conditions, that gives character to chickens from Bresse or to Sharpham cheeses, Devon or Scottish beef, lobster and crab from Budleigh Salterton or Newlyn, raspberries or wild mushrooms from Scotland.
Being based at Gidleigh Park, this beautiful country estate on the edge of Dartmoor, has taught me to listen to Nature. Here I live closer to the source of what we eat, the source of what I cook. I am surrounded by farms and I know what is involved, the hard work and dedication to produce quality foods that are natural and genuine: organic salads and herbs; wild mushrooms gathered from the woods and forests; our rich West Country dairy products; humanely raised livestock from the moor just above me; locally landed fish and shellfish; and so much more.
From time immemorial, crafty home cooks have learned to make use of the abundance of ingredients available on their very own doorstep. This is simply good, economical housekeeping. Great chefs must be able to transform what is plentiful and in season into something creative, imaginative, beautiful and above all delicious. Such foods, unself-consciously and naturally, taste of the land from which they are born.
Now, as Michael Caines and ABode move beyond our West Country roots to new parts of the country, I am presented with exciting challenges. My aim, wherever we may happen to be, is always to champion the best of local foods.
I expect all my chefs to create local and meaningful relationships with farmers, growers, fishermen, food producers and suppliers. While I love the flavour of our Devon beef and Exmoor lamb, Scotland has a great tradition in producing top quality meat, not just from the well-known Aberdeen Angus but also from more rare beef breeds such as Highland cattle, as well as flavourful Shetland lamb. Neither Devon nor Scottish meat is better than the other: they are both products of their own unique and respective terroirs, each with their own flavours and character. Similarly, Kent is known as 'The Garden of England,' and I look forward to discovering a wealth of fine produce and foods here for Michael Caines @ ABode Canterbury. The same will hold true wherever in the country we may happen to be.
I love to taste a place when I go out to eat or travel - it adds authenticity and integrity to the dining experience. Seeking regional and local flavours and foods is what we are all about. Ultimately, my aim is to create local restaurants for local people, serving local foods made from local ingredients and products - and at local prices.
